Northern Garden Changes Due To March Winds - By: Kent Higgins

March winds can do more damage in Northern gardens to some plants than the hard freezes of winter. Plants are now moving from a dormant to an active state. Growth impulses take place not in the roots, but in the buds, which are exposed to all changes in temperature.

Azaleas, forsythia and other early-flowering shrubs become active with the slightest rise in temperature. Chill, drying winds can harm even plants under cover. Be careful therefore, about uncovering plants too soon; although covered, many will have started into growth. Sudden exposure at this time can be disastrous. Uncover gradually, leaving some protective covering until the new growth becomes acclimated.

Flower Shows

The big spring flower shows give us some release from the urge to "get going" in the garden. Take full advantage of these spectacles. Sure, they're glamour-bed, and perhaps certain plant combinations which would not naturally bloom together may disturb your sense of the practical. But consider the skill and knowledge involved in forcing the many plants into growth and bloom for a specific date - even to outmaneuvering the weather! Try to get a glimpse of the background, not just the effect. Take a notebook along. Look through the pamphlets you are bound to collect. Ask questions. Study and appraise plant material and combinations. Study the reactions of your fellow gardeners as well as those who are not gardeners.

Outdoor Preparation

In the milder parts of the northern area, digging and seeding can begin from mid-March to late March, or just as soon as the frost is out of the ground. This year vegetables will receive more emphasis than ever. Like the pioneers, we are necessarily being forced to live closer to the soil. Fortunate is he who has a piece of land to till. There's a satisfaction beyond measure in making it productive.

If your ground is workable now, get your plowing or digging done. Lighter soils can be put into shape sooner than heavier soils. The latter can be improved in texture by adding coarse sand or coal ashes. Sawdust will supply some organic matter, but do not use too much of it. Organic matter is an absolute must; without it, production cannot be maintained. Green cover crops, compost, manure, leafmold or plain refuse are all good sources. With any of these, use 3 pounds of superphosphate and 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer per 100 square feet. Add half the fertilizer to the soil at digging time, the other half on the surface at the final preparation stage.

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